Have you ever looked at a pair of flip flops and seen potential for something more? Today, I am thrilled to introduce the Walk The Line Chukka Boots—a design that bridges the gap between comfortable loungewear and refined street style.
If you have been hesitant to try crocheting footwear because you are worried about durability or the “homemade” look, this pattern is designed specifically for you.
note: this page contains affiliate links
The foundation of this project starts with a standard flip flop sole. By modifying the sole and crocheting directly through it, we create a shoe that isn’t just a slipper—it is actual footwear. The rubber sole provides the grip and water resistance you need to walk outside, while the crochet upper provides a custom fit that hugs your ankle perfectly.
One of the best parts about making shoes with flip-flop soles is that the length is already taken care of! You simply buy the flip-flops that fit your feet.
For the crochet “upper” (the boot part), I have graded the pattern to fit three standard size ranges:
- Small: Women’s 5/6
- Medium: Women’s 7/8
- Large: Women’s 9/10
The pattern includes stitch counts for each size, written as S (M, L), so you can easily follow along for your specific foot size. There also are tips for modifications so that you can further customize the fit.
For this design, we skip the bulky worsted weight yarn. Instead, we use Aunt Lydia’s Fashion Crochet Thread (Size 3). Why this choice?
- Refined Look: The tighter twist and thinner gauge give the boots a polished, store-bought aesthetic.
- Sturdiness: This thread is incredibly strong and holds its shape, meaning your boots won’t sag after a few wears.
The beauty of the Walk The Line boots lies in the texture. We use a specific Single Crochet technique, working into the loop closest to the inside of the shoe. This creates a distinct, modern striped texture that adds visual depth to the fabric.
Perhaps the most interesting part of the construction is the Zipper/Slip Stitch Join. This technique joins the sides of the boot together with the top of the shoe in one clean line of motion. It is fun to work up and results in a very professional finish.
The pattern has instructions for 3 women’s foot sizes, but included are options for modifying the instructions so that these shoes can fit any foot.
Because of the classic Chukka silhouette, these boots are incredibly versatile. The lacing system uses the natural spaces created during construction, so you can swap out the laces to match your mood. I used sturdy cotton cording for a natural/boho look, but you can easily swap in satin ribbon for a feminine touch or standard laces for a sporty vibe.
Ready to make your own pari? These boots are comfortable, customizable, and a guaranteed conversation starter.
Other crochet patterns by City Farmhouse Studio:
Crochet Walk The Line Chukka Boots
by City Farmhouse Studio
Get the printable PDF version of the pattern (without ads) HERE
Add it to your Ravelry queue HERE
Size: Small (Med, Large)
Women’s Shoe: 5/6 (7/8, 9/10)
Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Fashion 3 Thread – 150 yds – 100% mercerized cotton – 2 balls
Crochet Hook – Steel 1 (2.35 mm)
Crochet Hook – D (3.25 mm)
Flip Flops to fit length of foot + 3/4” (not how they fit with post between toes)
Scissors
Pencil or Pen
Sharp Tapestry Needle or Awl
Tape Measure
Stitch Markers
Cotton Cording or Laces, 26-30” x2
E600 or Strong Adhesive
Gauge 4” x 4” = 29 sts x 26 rows of sc in one loop, alternating front and back loop between rows
A YouTube video showing all the steps in crocheting these shoes can be found at:
Glossary
Sc – Single crochet
Sl st – Slip Stitch
Ch – Chain
Shoe Base
With the scissors, cut off the straps and the center posts that goes between the toes. Save the portions with the bottom caps to glue in later.
Start marking locations on side of the sole where the holes will be poked. With the heel pointing to you, make a small pencil mark in the center of the heel near the top edge of the shoe. Using the tape measure, mark every 1 cm around the shoe base. As you get near the first mark you may need to make several marks more or less than 1 cm to line up.
Once done, line up the other shoe to the one just marked so that the foot surfaces are touching. Transfer the mark locations from one shoe to the other so that they are mirror images of each other.
Using a sharp tapestry needle or awl, poke in through the side of the shoe and up through to shoe base. The hole should start mid way on the shoe side and go in about ¼” away from the edge on the shoe top surface. Repeat a hole for each mark on the shoe.
Crochet Edge
Rnd 1: With the steel crochet hook #1, a slip knot on hook, and starting at the center heel; insert your hook from the top surface of the shoe and go down though to the side. Sc 2 times into each hole working your way around shoe base. Sl st in first sc of rnd to close.
Rnd 2: With crochet hook D, ch 1 and moving to the outside side of the foot, sc in each st around. Sl st in first sc of rnd to close.
Rnd 3: Ch 1 and turn. Working only in the loop closest to the center of the shoe footbed, sc around (if you turned your work on the previous row you would make front loop sc. If you worked in the same direction, then you would back loop sc around). Sl st in first sc of rnd to close.
Rnd 4-5: Ch 1 and turn. Working only in the inside loop closest to the center of the shoe, sc around. Sl st in first sc of rnd to close.
Rnd 6: Ch 1 and turn. Working only in the inside loop closest to the center of the shoe, sc around. Do not sl st.
Rnd 7: To mark location for where the ankle sections will be, count from back heel and place a stitch marker in the 33 (35, 37] sc. Move stitch markers if needed to align with each other. Also place marker in center of toe area for future reference.
Do not chain 1 and turn but continue in same direction. Sc in inside stitch loop to first marked st, but not in marked stitch. Sl st in inside loop of marked st. Ch 1 and turn. Sc in inside loop of 1st sc around to next marker, but not in marked stitch. (Note- for ease of identifying stitches on next row, place stitch markers in each sc after a ch 1 and turn) Sl st in inside loop of marked st.
Ch 1 and turn. Sc in inside loop of 1st sc of previous row around leaving 2 sc of previous row unworked. Sl st in inside loop of last sc of previous row. Ch 1 and turn. Sc in front loop of 1st sc around leaving 2 sc unworked. Sl st in inside loop of next st.
Repeat above paragraph once.
Ankle Height: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in inside loop of 1st sc of previous row. Sc in inside loop to last sc. Ch 1 and turn. Sc in the inside loop around to last sc of previous row.
Repeat above paragraph twice more.
Ch 1 and turn. Sc in inside loop of 1st sc of previous row around leaving 2 sc of previous row unworked. Sl st in inside loop of last sc of previous row. Ch 1 and turn. Sc in inside loop of 1st sc around leaving 2 sc unworked. Sl st in inside loop of next st.
Repeat above paragraph once.
Remove markers except toe center and those at the 3rd decrease made.
Ch 1 and turn. Sc in inside loop all around foot, evenly along decrease edges, along toe area, and all the way to back middle of heel. Go back around to heel again, working in the same direction and sc in every inside loop. Sl st in center of heel. Bind off if confident shoe will fit.
Toe Box Upper and Tongue
With a slip knot on hook, ch 7.
Row 1: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st. 6 sc in row.
Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. Make 2 sc in first front loop of the 1st st in row. Continue sc in each front loop of row, make one more sc in last st front loop to increase again. 8 sc in row.
Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Make 2 sc in first back loop of the 1st st in row. Continue sc in each back loop of row, make one more sc in last st back loop to increase again. 10 sts in row.
Row 4: Ch 1 and turn. Make 2 sc in first front loop of the 1st st in row. Continue sc in each front loop of row, make one more sc in last st front loop to increase again. 12 sts in row.
Row 5: Ch 1 and turn. Make 2 sc in first back loop of the 1st st in row. Continue sc in each back loop of row, make one more sc in last st back loop to increase again. 14 sts in row.
Row 6: Ch 1 and turn. Make a sc in each front loop of each st in row. 14 sc in row.
Row 7: Ch 1 and turn. Make 2 sc in first back loop of the 1st st in row. Continue sc in each back loop of row, make one more sc in last st back loop to increase again. 16 sc in row.
Row 8: Ch 1 and turn. Make a sc in each front loop of each st in row. 16 sc in row.
Row 9: Ch 1 and turn. Make 2 sc in first back loop of the 1st st in row. Continue sc in each back loop of row, make one more sc in last st back loop to increase again. 18 sc in row.
Row 10: Ch 1 and turn. Make a sc in each front loop of each st in row. 18 sc in row.
Row 11: Ch 1 and turn. Make a sc in each back loop of each st in row. 18 sc in row.
Row 12: Ch 1 and turn. Make 2 sc in first front loop of the 1st st in row. Continue sc in each front loop of row, make one more sc in last st front loop to increase again. 20 sc in row.
Row 13: Ch 1 and turn. Make a sc in each back loop of each st in row. 20 sc in row.
Row 14: Ch 1 and turn. Make 2 sc in first front loop of the 1st st in row. Continue sc in each front loop of row, make one more sc in last st front loop to increase again. 22 sc in row.
Size Small proceeds to straight rows.
Sizes (Med, Large) only: Row 15: Ch 1 and turn. Make a sc in each back loop of each st in row. 22 sc in row.
Size (Med, Large) only: Row 16: Ch 1 and turn. Make 2 sc in first front loop of the 1st st in row. Continue sc in each front loop of row, make one more sc in last st front loop to increase again. 24 sc in row. Size Med proceeds to straight rows.
Size (Large) Only: Row 17: Ch 1 and turn. Make 2 sc in first back loop of the 1st st in row. Continue sc in each back loop of row, make one more sc in last st back loop to increase again. 26 sc in row.
All Sizes: Straight Rows – Continue Ch 1 and turn and sc in each loop, alternating working in only front and back loops. Repeat for a total of 25 straight rows for all sizes. Place a stitch marker in loop on hook to prevent it from coming out.
Remove all stitch markers except those in third decrease location on row sides and at toe area. Pin in top/tongue portion to shoe base, centering chain section to toe center marking. Evenly pin sides together up to 3rd decrease marked area.
Pick up held loop back on hook. Sc evenly down the side of the top section to first pinned area. Zipper/Sl Stitch join around through pinned area (for further detail reference https://youtu.be/7Z6vPKcx2lY?si=jxIFUv9HLuX0Wsye shows the join method). Sc evenly up top section to top corner. Sl St in first st of last top row. Bind off.
Weave in ends.
Add cording, laces, or ribbon for ties.
Trim down plastic from bottom of shoe caps. Glue into place.
Refer to YouTube tutorial for options on how to improve fit.
Discover more from City Farmhouse Studio
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.