After making the Moondance Cardigan out of Lion Brand’s Truboo yarn, I knew I wanted to make something else with it. The yarn is so soft, silky, and keeps you cool when wearing it. I thought it would be a great fiber for a swimsuit cover up.
I wanted a design that was somewhat simple and straight forward so that it would be easy to wear. I wanted the shoulders and upper arms covered, since that is where I always burn. But I wanted the neckline a little more open since it is summer, and also for comfort when wearing swimsuits that are halter or tie at the neck. This would keep everything from being all at the same place and feeling bulky. However….
note: this page contains affiliate links
Once I finally finished getting it all made and sewn together the weather had cooled off. It wasn’t really warm enough for a swimsuit, but I still wanted to wear it. So, I layered it over a pair of black leggings and black tank and wore it out. I LOVED IT!
The drape and softness of the Truboo makes it feel so luxurious. The fit is just fit enough to be flattering, but not overly revealing. I felt comfortable, but fancy! I felt like I was going out dancing for some reason I felt so fancy.
I will note that I made this dress to my gauge, to my size, and it blocked great. However, as I wore it the dress grew. I got a little more ease in the bust and arms, but I noticed it more in the length. I have washed and dried it and it goes back to the blocked size, but as soon as I wear it for some time it grows again. I don’t mind the extra length, but it is something to keep in mind if someone is looking for a certain fit and style
If you have followed my patterns you know I’m all for comfort and versatility along with style. If I’m going out I don’t want to look like I’m in my pajamas, but I want to be as comfortable as if I was. I don’t want to spend all my time (and money) making a garment that I find hard to wear, both in style and comfort. I want something I can dress up or down, layer things over or under for multiple seasons, and be comfortable in. With this dress I think I have nailed it all.
I am so excited to see how many ways I can wear this, and one of those ways will certainly be to go out dancing! I hope you enjoy this dress and feel just as excited about it as I do.
Some of City Farmhouse Studio’s other crochet tops:
Crochet I Wanna Dance With Somebody Dress
by City Farmhouse Studio
Get the printable PDF version of the pattern (without ads) HERE
Add it to your Ravelry queue HERE
Lion Brand Truboo – 3.5oz/100g – 241 yd/220m – 100 % Rayon from Bamboo – Category 3 Light Yarn – 6 (7, 7, 8) 9, 10 [11, 11, 12] skeins. Get it HERE.
Crochet Hook: H (5.0mm)
Sizes: XS (S, M, L) XL, 2X [3X, 4X, 5X]
Finished garment bust circumference: 35 (39, 42, 46) 50, 55 [59, 64, 69] inches
Finished garment length: 27 (28, 28 ½, 29 ½) 30, 30 ½ [31 ½, 31 ½, 32] inches
Gauge: 4” x 4” = 16 alternating sc then dc pattern x 16 rows
Notes:
A YouTube video showing the stitch patterns, how to decrease, work the neckline and more information about the dress construction can be found at https://youtu.be/H2a6rZKCilk
Acronyms:
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet
Ch – chain
ScDc2Tog – decrease stitch made by working the beginning of a single crochet and double crochet in two stitches next to each other, but then closing the stitches together. To work, create the first pull through loop of a sc stitch. Yarn over, and in next stitch over pull up a loop. Yarn over and draw that loop through 2 loops on hook for beginning of a dc stitch. Yarn over and draw it through all 3 loops on hook to close stitches.
Front:
Foundation sc 78 (84, 92, 104) 112, 122 [130, 140, 150].
Row 1 – Ch 1 and turn. Sc in last st of previous row. Dc in next st. Repeat pattern of sc in one st then dc in next to end of row.
Row 2 – Ch 1 and turn. *Sc in dc of previous row, dc in sc f previous row.* Repeat from * to * to end of row.
Repeat Row 2 for 33 (36, 35, 41) 42, 42 [50, 48, 48] times.
Decrease Section – Repeat Row 2 except leave on stitch left unworked at end of row. Last stitch made will be a sc.
Ch 2 and turn (counts as first dc of row). Sc in next st. *Dc in sc of previous row, sc in dc of previous row.* Repeat from * to * to end of row leaving one stitch left unworked at the end of the row.
Work 11 (15, 11, 6) 6, 6 [5, 5, 5] rows beginning with a ch 2 as your first dc and ending without any decreases.
Repeat Decrease Section through regular row amount above an additional 3 (2, 3, 5) 5, 5 [5, 5, 5] times. Follow stitch pattern of previous row worked to determine where you will sc and where you will dc. If first stitch of row begins with a sc, then you will ch 1 then make your sc. If row begins with a dc, then you will ch 2 and that will count as your dc. 70 (78, 84, 92) 100, 110 [118, 128, 138] sts.
Work 9 (10, 11, 13) 14, 15 [16, 17, 18] rows even.
Work 26 (32, 34, 38) 42, 46 [52, 56, 60] sts. ScDc2Tog.
Ch1 and turn. Sc in next dc of previous row, skipping over the decrease stitch. Continue working row in pattern.
Work 24 (30, 32, 36) 40, 44 [50, 54, 58] sts. ScDc2Tog.
Ch1 and turn. Sc in next dc of previous row, skipping over the decrease stitch. Continue working row in pattern.
Work 0 (0, 2, 2) 2, 2 [2, 2, 2] rows even.
Work 22 (28, 30, 34) 38, 42 [48, 52, 56] sts. ScDc2Tog.
Ch1 and turn. Sc in next dc of previous row, skipping over the decrease stitch. Continue working row in pattern.
Work 20 (26, 28, 32) 36, 40 [46, 50, 54] sts. ScDc2Tog.
Ch1 and turn. Sc in next dc of previous row, skipping over the decrease stitch. Continue working row in pattern.
Sizes (L) Xl, 2X [3X, 4X, 5X] – Work (30) 34, 38 [44, 48, 52] sts. ScDc2Tog.
Ch1 and turn. Sc in next dc of previous row, skipping over the decrease stitch. Continue working row in pattern.
All Sizes – work 4 (5, 4, 2) 2, 3 [4, 5, 6] rows even. Bind off.
To work other shoulder – starting at the edge of the body where you stopped working full rows; count over 28 (34, 36, 40) 44, 48 [54, 58, 62] sts. With slip knot on hook, starting with the last stitch you counted and working back towards edge, ScDc2Tog. Continue working to edge in pattern.
Work 24 (30, 32, 36) 40, 44 [50, 54, 58] sts. ScDc2Tog.
Ch1 and turn. Sc in next dc of previous row, skipping over the decrease stitch. Continue working row in pattern.
Work 0 (0, 2, 2) 2, 2 [2, 2, 2] rows even.
Work 22 (28, 30, 34) 38, 42 [48, 52, 56] sts. ScDc2Tog.
Ch1 and turn. Sc in next dc of previous row, skipping over the decrease stitch. Continue working row in pattern.
Work 20 ( 26, 28, 32) 36, 40 [46, 50, 54] sts. ScDc2Tog.
Ch1 and turn. Sc in next dc of previous row, skipping over the decrease stitch. Continue working row in pattern.
Sizes (L) Xl, 2X [3X, 4X, 5X] – Work (30) 34, 38 [44, 48, 52] sts. ScDc2Tog.
Ch1 and turn. Sc in next dc of previous row, skipping over the decrease stitch. Continue working row in pattern.
All Sizes – work 5 (6, 5, 3) 3, 4 [5, 6, 7] rows even. Bind off.
Back:
Foundation sc 78 (84, 92, 104) 112, 122 [130, 140, 150].
Row 1 – Ch 1 and turn. Sc in last st of previous row. Dc in next st. Repeat pattern of sc in one st then dc in next to end of row.
Row 2 – Ch 1 and turn. *Sc in dc of previous row, dc in sc f previous row.* Repeat from * to * to end of row.
Repeat Row 2 for 42 (46, 46, 54) 58, 57 [66, 65, 66] times.
Decrease Section – Repeat Row 2 except leave on stitch left unworked at end of row. Last stitch made will be a sc.
Ch 2 and turn (counts as first dc of row). Sc in next st. *Dc in sc of previous row, sc in dc of previous row.* Repeat from * to * to end of row leaving one stitch left unworked at the end of the row.
Work 11 (15, 11, 6) 6, 6 [5, 5, 5] rows beginning with a ch 2 as your first dc and ending without any decreases.
Repeat Decrease Section through regular row amount above an additional 3 (2, 3, 5) 5, 5 [5, 5, 5] times. Follow stitch pattern of previous row worked to determine where you will sc and where you will dc. If first stitch of row begins with a sc, then you will ch 1 then make your sc. If row begins with a dc, then you will ch 2 and that will count as your dc. 70 (78, 84, 92) 100, 110 [118, 128, 138] sts.
Work 12 (10, 13, 17) 15, 17 [18, 19, 20] rows even.
Work 24 (30, 32, 36) 40, 44 [50, 54, 58] sts. ScDc2Tog.
Ch1 and turn. Sc in next dc of previous row, skipping over the decrease stitch. Continue working row in pattern.
Work 20 ( 26, 28, 30) 34, 38 [44, 48, 52] sts. ScDc2Tog.
Ch1 and turn. Sc in next dc of previous row, skipping over the decrease stitch. Continue working row in pattern.
Work 0 (1, 1, 1) 1, 2 [2, 2, 2] rows even. Bind off.
To work other shoulder – starting at the edge of the body where you stopped working full rows; count over 26 (32, 34, 38) 42, 46 [52, 56, 60] sts. With slip knot on hook, starting with the last stitch you counted and working back towards edge, ScDc2Tog. Continue working to edge in pattern.
Work 20 ( 26, 28, 30) 34, 38 [44, 48, 52] sts. ScDc2Tog.
Ch1 and turn. Sc in next dc of previous row, skipping over the decrease stitch. Continue working row in pattern.
Work 1 (2, 2, 2) 2, 3 [3, 3, 3] rows even. Bind off.
Sleeves:
Count down from shoulder edge 29 (31, 33, 35) 40, 42 [44, 46, 48] rows of each front and back panel, and place a stitch marker on each side to note where sleeves will begin. Seam shoulders.
Between markers, sc then dc for a total of 58 (62, 66, 70) 80, 84 [88, 92, 96) stitches.
Work 26 (27, 25, 25) 25, 23 [22, 17, 14] rows even in pattern.
Ch1 and turn. Sc in each stitch to the end. Seam sleeve edges together continuing down body side. Bind off.
Neckline:
Sc evenly around the neckline. Bind off.
I absolutely love this! So versatile & looks so stylish. I need to check out this yarn too!!