Crochet Night Moves Sweater

This pattern has been one I have been thinking of for years. On Instagram and Ravelry I kept seeing all these beautiful round yoke sweaters with color work. All the patterns that go around the collar, the multitude of color options, the historical stories you hear about where they came from, the pattern symbols, and who wore them all intrigued me. But, I never saw any for crochet.

So, determined to make one for crochet I set out to find a stitch pattern that would give a great pattern for around the collar. The stitch not only needed to be able to be worked in color for a design to be created, but still needed to have a nice impact when worked in one color for the main portion of the body. Surprisingly, this was an easier task than I thought. That, or I lucked out in finding a stitch quickly.

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The pattern for the color work is easily made by working the same set of stitches to form a motif, and then just changing colors on certain rows. I have made a Youtube video (found here) to show how to make the set of stitches that form each motif, how to change the colors, and also how to make the increases and decreases. I also talk about some aspects of the pattern that I hope will help you visualize the pattern steps in advance.

Since making this sweater I have worn it as often as I can. It is great when you have a sweater that you enjoyed making just as much as wearing. I hope that you enjoy the process and wearing yours just as much.

Check out our other popular crochet sweaters below:

Crochet Night Moves Sweater
by City Farmhouse Studio

Get the printable PDF version of the pattern (without ads) HERE
Add it to your Ravelry queue HERE

Lion Brand Basic Stitch Anti-Pilling (get it HERE) – Charcoal Heather – 185 yds – 5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9
Lion Brand Basic Stitch Anti-Pilling (get it HERE) – Taupe Heather – 185 yds – 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1
Lion Brand Basic Stitch Anti-Pilling (get it HERE ) – Turquoise Heather – 185 yds – 1 , 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1

Alternatives for yarn substitution: Caron Simply Soft, Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran, Yarn Bee Soft and Sleek, Bernat Premium, Mary Maxim Aran Irish Twist, Herrschners Worsted Weight, Premier Yarn Anti-Pilling Everyday Worsted, Cascade Yarns Anthem, Universal Yarn Uptown Worsted

Crochet Hook – K (6.5mm)
Stitch Markers
Needle

Sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X 
Finished garment bust measurement: 33, 36, 39, 43, 48, 52, 55 inches

Gauge: 4” x 4” = 5 motifs x 12 rows

Notes:
Motif = the (sc, ch1, dc) in one st or chain space.

A YouTube video showing the motif, how to increase, decrease, change color, and more information about the sweater construction can be found at https://youtu.be/mGVvUtq1QFA

A stitch marker is used to measure from for the length of the body.  They can also be used to mark each hdc of every row for easy row counting during repeats.

For color changes, use the color to be used on the next row to pull through the sl sl.  No slip knots necessary. Leave enough tail to weave in the end to secure.  

For color changes, the maker has the choice of cutting the yarn between each color change, or carrying up the unused yarn on the inside of the garment.  

Color Changes as follows:
Rnd 4:  Yarn 2
Rnd 5:  Yarn 3
Rnd 6:  Yarn 2
Rnd 7:  Yarn 2
Rnd 8:  Yarn 1
Rnd 9:  Yarn 3
Rnd 10:  Yarn 2
Rnd 11:  Yarn 3
Rnd 12:  Yarn 3
Rnd 13:  Yarn 3
Rnd 14:  Yarn 2
Rnd 15:  Yarn 2
Rnd 16:  Yarn 3
Rnd 17:  Yarn 1
Rnd 18:  Yarn 3
Rnd 19:  Yarn 2
Rnd 20:  Yarn 1
Rnd 21:  Yarn 2
Rnd 22 on:  Yarn 1

Yoke:
With yarn 1:  Ch 72, 75, 78, 81, 84, 87, 90.  Sl st in first ch.  

Rnd 1:  Ch 2 and turn.  Hdc in last st made of previous row.  Sk 1 st. *(Sc, ch1, dc) in next st. Sk 2 sts.*  Repeat from * to * ending row with a sc in last st.  Sl st in 2nd ch of turning ch. (Motifs: 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29)

Rnd 2-3:  Repeat Rnd 1, on Rnd 3 use yarn 2 to pull through for sl st.  This changes colors in preparation for Rnd 4. Follow this process for each color change.  

Place a stitch marker around sl st.  This is the point you will measure from.

Beginning with Rnd 4, increase evenly 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 13 motifs.  Do so by ch 2 turn, hdc, make 1 motif. *Make one motif in the next sc of previous row.  Work 2 motifs as normal starting in the next ch.* Repeat from * to * for required motif increases.  Then work 2, 1, 2, 1, 2, 1, 2 motifs, sc in last st. Sl st in 2nd ch of turning ch, changing color. (Motifs: 33, 35, 36, 38, 39, 41, 42)

Work 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3 rnds repeating Rnd 1.

Increase evenly by 11, 11, 13, 13, 14, 16, 16 motifs.  Do so by ch 2 turn, hdc, work 0, 1, 5, 6, 6, 5, 5 motifs.  *Make one motif in the next sc of previous row. Work 3, 3, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2 motifs as normal starting in the next ch.*  Repeat from * to * for required motif increases. Then make 0, 1, 5, 6, 5, 4, 5 motifs, sc in last st. Sl st in 2nd ch of turning ch, changing color.  (Motifs: 44, 46, 49, 51, 53, 57, 58)

Work 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3 rnds repeating Rnd 1.

Increase evenly by 8, 10, 11, 13, 14, 14, 15 motifs.  Do so by ch 2 turn, hdc, work 2, 3, 3, 6, 6, 1, 7 motifs.  *Make one motif in the next sc of previous row. Work 5, 4, 4, 3, 3, 4, 3 motifs as normal starting in the next ch.*  Repeat from * to * for required motif increases. Then make 2, 3, 2, 6, 5, 0, 6 motifs, sc in last st. Sl st in 2nd ch of turning ch, changing color if needing to.  (Motifs: 52, 56, 60, 64, 67, 71, 73)

Work 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3 rnds repeating Rnd 1.

Increase evenly by 6, 7, 8, 9, 12, 13, 13 motifs.  Do so by ch 2 turn, hdc, work 2, 3, 2, 0, 3, 3, 4 motifs.  *Make one motif in the next sc of previous row. Work 0, 7, 7, 7, 5, 5, 5 motifs as normal starting in the next ch.*  Repeat from * to * for required motif increases. Then make 2, 4, 2, 1, 4, 3, 4 motifs, sc in last st. Sl st in 2nd ch of turning ch, changing color.  (Motifs: 58, 63, 68, 73, 79, 84, 86)

Work 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3 rnds repeating Rnd 1.

Increase evenly by 4, 5, 6, 8, 8, 9, 11 motifs.  Do so by ch 2 turn, hdc, work 1, 2, 1, 1, 4, 2, 5 motifs.  *Make one motif in the next sc of previous row. Work 14, 12, 11, 9, 9, 9, 7 motifs as normal starting in the next ch.*  Repeat from * to * for required motif increases. Then make 1, 1, 1, 0, 3, 1, 4 motifs, sc in last st. Sl st in 2nd ch of turning ch, changing color.  (Motifs: 62, 68, 74, 81, 87, 93, 97)

Work 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3 rnds repeating Rnd 1.

Increase evenly by 3, 3, 5, 5, 6, 6, 9 motifs.  Do so by ch 2 turn, hdc, work 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 3 motifs.  *Make one motif in the next sc of previous row. Work 20, 22, 14, 16, 14, 15, 10 motifs as normal starting in the next ch.*  Repeat from * to * for required motif increases. Then make 1, 1, 2, 0, 2, 2, 4 motifs, sc in last st. Sl st in 2nd ch of turning ch, changing color if needing to.  (Motifs: 65, 71, 79, 86, 93, 99, 106)

Continue repeating Rnd 1 until piece measures 6 ¾, 7 ½, 8 ¼, 9, 9 ¾, 10 ⅝, 11 ⅜ inches from stitch marker.

To make armholes, begin rnd with Ch 2 and turn.  Hdc and work 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 13, 14 motifs. Ch 6, 6, 6, 6, 9, 9, 9.  Skip over 13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 motifs of previous row. Work 21, 23, 25, 28, 31, 35, 38 motifs on the front of the body.  Ch 6, 6, 6, 6, 9, 9, 9. Skip over 13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 motifs of previous row. Work 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 13, 14 motifs, sc in last st, and sl st in 2nd ch of turning chain.  (Note: chain becomes underarm area. Skipped motifs become sleeves.)

Body:
On next rnd ch 2 and turn.  Make 1 hdc and work as normal until you reach the chain.  Make 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3 motifs around the chain. Work the front body as normal.  Make 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3 motifs around the next chain section. Work the back body as normal ending with a sc in last st, and sl st in 2nd ch of turning ch. (Motifs: 43, 47, 51, 56, 63, 67, 72)

Work 3, 3, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5 rnds repeating Rnd 1, working only the body section of the sweater. 

On the next rnd increase by 1 motif under each underarm.  Do so by making one motif in a sc under the middle of the under arm chain.  (Note: for size XL, 2X, and 3X you have an odd number of motifs under the arm.  So this increase won’t be in the middle. You can choose if you would like the fabric to be added towards the back or front of the garment.  Mark the increase with a stitch marker.)

Work 6 rnds repeating Rnd 1.  

Repeat the the increase rnd and plain rnds  above 3 more times. Choose location of increase to either alternate between the back and front side of the garment for an even increase.  Or, add extra fullness to only the front or back of the garment if that is desired by only increasing towards that side.

Continue the body by repeating Rnd 1 until garment measures 13” from under arm division, or to desired length.

Sleeves:
Starting under one of the arms, with yarn 1 and a slip knot on your hook, sl st around the ch that was also previously worked around for the body.  (Note: The location of the sl st should give you enough room to make 1 hdc and 1 motif before working on skipped over motifs. Also, you need to be sure that you are working in the correct direction so that as you look at the motif on the sleeve’s previous row a motif’s dc is to the right of the sc.)   Ch 2, hdc in last st of previous row. Make 1 motif under the arm around the ch. Work a motif in each of the 13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 motifs that were skipped over for the sleeves. Work 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2 more motifs under the arm around the ch. Make 1 sc and sl st in 2nd ch of turning ch. (Motifs:  15, 16, 18, 19, 21, 22, 23)

Make 1 rnd repeating Rnd 1.

On next rnd, ch 2 and turn.  Hdc in first motif ch space. Continue around as usual, ending with a sc in last st, and sl st in 2nd ch of turning ch.  (Note: This rnd has made 1 motif decrease to begin taper of sleeve.) (Motifs: 14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 21, 22)

Work 8, 8, 8, 6, 6, 6, 6 rnds repeating Rnd 1.

Repeat decrease rnd and plain rnds above 1, 1, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3 more times.  (Motifs: 13, 14, 15, 15, 17, 18, 19)

Repeat Rnd 1 until sleeve measures 17 ½, 17 ½, 16 ½, 16, 15 ½, 15 inches from under arm chain, or until desired length.

Repeat for other sleeve.