Two years ago I made the Summer in the City top, and last year I wore it quite a bit along with the Summer Breeze top. I think I wore the summer breeze more, but over this winter I ended up missing not being able to wear the Summer in the City top. Just the little edge detail that is so easy to dress up or down I missed. It then came to me that I should make a long sleeve version so that I can wear it all year long.
While the Summer in the City top uses Bernat Softee Baby Cotton yarn, for this winter version I wanted something with wool. I found the Premier Wool Select yarn to be a great option. Also, both Summer and Winter in the City have the same gauge, so either yarn is a great option.
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With just a little lace detail at the bottom sleeve cuffs and body hem, this pattern is great to do a few rows of something new but then have some nice stockinette to make a lovely sweater that isn’t so basic.
The neck is made of short rows, and the edging is just reverse stockinette. The YouTube video takes you through all the stitches of the sweater construction.
Even though it is technically spring here, I am happy to have a little more winter in the city so that I can wear this sweater a bit longer until Summer in the City takes over.
Other knitting patterns by City Farmhouse Studio:
Knit Winter in the City Sweater
by City Farmhouse Studio
See the machine knit version of the pattern HERE
Get the printable PDF version of the pattern (without ads) HERE
Add it to your Ravelry queue HERE
Premier – Wool Select – 3.5oz/100g – 273 yd/250m – 75% Acrylic/25% Wool – Category 3 Light Yarn – 3 (3, 4, 4) 4, 5 [5, 5, 5] skeins
Yarn suggestions for substitution: Paintbox Yarns Wool Blend DK, Plymouth Yarn Encore DK, Knit Picks Heatherly Sport, Premier Yarns Anti-Pilling Everyday DK , Mary Maxim Mellowspun DK, Loops & Threads Delicate DK, King Cole Paradise Beaches DK
Knitting Needles Size 7 (4.5mm)
Crochet Hook G (4 ¼ mm) (optional for bind off)
Sizes: XS (S, M, L) XL, 2X [3X, 4X, 5X]
Finished garment bust circumference: 36 (39, 42.5, 45.5) 49, 55 [58.5, 61.5, 68] inches
Finished garment length: 21 (21.35, 21.65, 22.35) 22.35, 22.65 [22.65, 23.35, 23.35] inches
Gauge: 4” x 4” = 20 sts x 24 rows
Notes:
A YouTube video showing from cast on to bind off; along with step by step how to do the decorative pattern, wrapped short rows, and more information about the sweater construction can be found at https://youtu.be/yNjyz2Kx3Vk
Acronyms:
RS = right side of fabric facing you
WS = wrong side of fabric facing you
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
p2tog = purl 2 stitches together
cdd = center double decrease
rli = right lifted increase
rlip = right lifted increase purl
lli = left lifted increase
llip = left lifted increase purl
Front:
Set up for a long tail cast on, holding double strand of yarn on the tail around your thumb (what will be the base of the stitches). Cast on 90 (98, 106, 114) 122, 138 [146, 154, 170] stitches.
RS: Knit the first stitch, repeat the pattern chart below starting at the bottom of the chart. Repeat until one stitch remains. Knit the last stitch.
Continue working the pattern, knit the first and last stitch of the RS rows.
Work in stockinette until garment measures from the cast on edge 13.75 (13.75, 13.25, 13.25) 12.25, 12 [11.25, 11.75, 11] inches, ending after a WS row.
Place markers at the edges to mark where to the sleeves will begin to be sewn in.
Work in stockinette until there is 2.5 (2.75, 3.25, 3.5) 4.25, 4.5 [5.25, 5.5, 6.25] inches measured after sleeve marking, ending after a WS row.
Begin neck short rows.
Knit 42 (46, 50, 54) 58, 66 [70, 74, 82] stitches. Wrap yarn around next unworked stitch and return back to left needle. Turn and purl the row.
*Knit next row leaving two more stitches unworked at end of the row. Wrap yarn around next unworked stitch and return back to left needle. Turn and purl the row.* Work * to * for a total of 5 (5, 6, 6) 6, 7 [7, 7, 7] times and 32 (36, 38, 42) 46, 52 [56, 60, 68] stitches worked.
Size (L) XL, 2X [3X, 4X, 5X] :
*Knit next row leaving one more stitch unworked. Wrap yarn around next unworked stitch and return back to left needle. Turn and purl the row.* Work from * to * for a total of (1) 2, 2 [2, 2, 2] times total. (41) 44, 50 [54, 58, 66] stitches left being worked without wraps for shoulder.
All Sizes:
*Knit row leaving one more stitch unworked. Wrap yarn around next unworked stitch and return back to left needle. Turn and purl the row.* Work from * to * for a total of 6 (6, 5, 6) 6, 5 [5, 5, 5] times total. 26 (30, 33, 35) 38, 45 [49, 53, 61] stitches left being worked without wraps for shoulder.
Knit in stockinette 5 (5, 7, 5) 5, 7[ 7, 7, 7] rows of just the worked 26 (30, 33, 35) 38, 45 [49, 53, 61] stitches. Bind off the 26 (30, 33, 35) 38, 45 [49, 53, 61] stitches just worked.
To work left shoulder, transfer stitches to begin purling other shoulder side. Purl 42 (46, 50, 54) 58, 66 [70, 74, 82] stitches. Wrap yarn around next unworked stitch and return back to left needle. Turn and knit the row.
*Purl next row leaving two more stitches unworked. Wrap yarn around next unworked stitch and return back to left needle. Turn and knit the row.* Work * to * for a total of 5 (5, 6, 6) 6, 7 [7, 7, 7] times and 32 (36, 38, 42) 46, 52 [56, 60, 68] stitches left in work for the shoulder.
Size (L) XL, 2X [3X, 4X, 5X] :
*Purl next row leaving one more stitch unworked. Wrap yarn around next unworked stitch and return back to left needle. Turn and knit the row.* Work from * to * for a total of (1) 2, 2 [2, 2, 2] times total. (41) 44, 50 [54, 58, 66] stitches left in work for the shoulder.
All Sizes:
*Purl the row leaving one more stitch unworked. Wrap yarn around next unworked stitch and return back to left needle. Turn and knit the row.* Work from * to * for a total of 6 (6, 5, 6) 6, 5 [5, 5, 5] times total. 26 (30, 33, 35) 38, 45 [49, 53, 61] stitches left being worked without wraps for shoulder.
Knit in stockinette 5 (5, 7, 5) 5, 7[ 7, 7, 7] rows of just the worked 26 (30, 33, 35) 38, 45 [49, 53, 61] stitches. Bind off the 26 (30, 33, 35) 38, 45 [49, 53, 61] stitches just worked.
Neck edging:
Working on RS of work; pick up 4 (4, 6, 4) 4, 6 [6, 6, 6] stitches on bound off neck edge, knit the remaining live stitches while picking up the wrapped yarn to knit together with the stitch it wrapped, and pick up 4 (4, 6, 4) 4, 6 [6, 6, 6] stitches on other bound off neck edge.
Work 2 rows of reverse stockinette.
With needles or a crochet hook, loosely crochet the stitches off with a slip stitch.
Back:
Set up for a long tail cast on, holding double strand of yarn on the tail around your thumb (what will be the base of the stitches). Cast on 90 (98, 106, 114) 122, 138 [146, 154, 170] stitches.
RS: Knit the first stitch, repeat the pattern chart below starting at the bottom of the chart. Repeat until one stitch remains. Knit the last stitch.
Continue working the pattern, knit the first and last stitch of the RS rows.
Work in stockinette until garment measures from the cast on edge 13.75 (13.75, 13.25, 13.25) 12.25, 12 [11.25, 11.75, 11] inches, ending after a WS row.
Place markers at the edges to mark where to the sleeves will begin to be sewn in.
Work in stockinette until there is 6.75 (7.25, 7.75, 8.5) 9.5, 10.25 [10.75, 11.25, 11.75] inches measured after sleeve marking, ending after a WS row.
Knit 26 (30, 33, 35) 38, 45 [49, 53, 61] stitches. Wrap yarn around next unworked stitch and return back to left needle. Turn and purl the row.
Knit in stockinette 1 more row of just the worked 26 (30, 33, 35) 38, 45 [49, 53, 61] stitches. Bind off the 26 (30, 33, 35) 38, 45 [49, 53, 61] stitches just worked.
To work left shoulder, transfer stitches to begin purling other shoulder side. Purl 26 (30, 33, 35) 38, 45 [49, 53, 61] stitches. Wrap yarn around next unworked stitch and return back to left needle. Turn and knit the row.
Knit in stockinette 1 more row of just the worked 26 (30, 33, 35) 38, 45 [49, 53, 61] stitches. Bind off the 26 (30, 33, 35) 38, 45 [49, 53, 61] stitches just worked.
Neck edging:
Working on RS of work; pick up 1 stitch on bound off neck edge, knit the remaining live stitches while picking up the wrapped yarn to knit together with the stitch it wrapped, and pick up 1 stitch on other bound off neck edge.
Work 2 rows of reverse stockinette.
With needles or a crochet hook, loosely crochet the stitches off with a slip stitch.
Sleeves:
Set up for a long tail cast on, holding double strand of yarn on the tail around your thumb (what will be the base of the stitches). Cast on 42 (42, 42, 42) 42, 42 [42, 42, 50] stitches.
RS: Knit the first stitch, repeat the pattern chart below starting at the bottom of the chart. Repeat until one stitch remains. Knit the last stitch.
Continue working the pattern, knit the first and last stitch of the RS rows.
Work in stockinette for 7 (7, 10, 4) 10, 2 [15, 10, 8] rows.
*On the next row increase one stitch at both ends of the row with either a rli, rlip, lli, llip (see YouTube link for further explanation). In stockinette work an additional 5 (4, 3, 3) 2, 2 [1, 1, 1] rows.* Repeat from * to * for a total of 15 (18, 21, 24) 29, 32 [35, 38, 37] times. 72 (78, 84, 90) 100, 106 [112, 118, 124] stitches in work.
Work in stockinette for 8 (8, 11, 5) 10, 3 [16, 11, 9] rows. Bind off all stitches.
Sew front and back shoulders together. Sew sleeves on between row markers. Seam sleeve and body side edges together.
Pattern Chart:
Pattern Chart Symbol Key:
knit on RS, purl on WS | |
/ | knit2tog |
/|\ | cdd |
o | yarn over |
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